Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Snail Mail

Hey everyone, just a quick post to let ya'll know my address in case you ever want to send some P.O. love!
Rebekah McDonald
PO Box 527
West Glacier MT 59936
Look forward to hearing from you =)

Monday, June 22, 2009

Call of the Wild

Sulking with the mean reds I traipsed out of field camp tonight. Gi Gi's folks are visiting from New Jersey. She and Paul made them a beautiful, delicious meal of red meat, grilled veggies, and tates. They invited Drew and I to join them, long taper candles lit and stuck in a sand bucket, with jazz playing in the background. Drew radiated excitement from his weekend trip to Many Glacier and the east side of the park, where he saw 5 black bear, 3 grizzlies, a fox, a coyote, I forget what else... probably a moose.
Excited, and amused at how much his being just - oozed - enthusiasm I watched and listened to him with glistening eyes... for awhile. And then the fatigue from my past two days of work (including about 6 hours of driving a 15 passenger van down washboard pot-holed dirt roads at about 20 mph) caught up with me. Listening to Drew, eating dinner with Paul and Gigi and their family I got to thinking my loon sightings, lion, wolf and bear scat findings and hundreds of wildflowers I saw- weren't enough. Not wanting to be a downer- I excused myself.
It is 11pm on the summer solstice, today, the longest day of the year, it has just turned totally dark. After excusing myself I snatched my trusty backpack, now suited for GNP instead of the AT with rain jacket, wildreness first aid kit, bear spray, binoculars, and map, and walked out of camp. I realized this evening I really miss walking - just being alone- on foot- in the middle of the woods with my thoughts, and everything else feral. So I walked down Drew and my fishing path, to the river, and wandered cobblestone and sandy islands and river banks, before setting up by a stump to watch the water, birds, clouds, mosquitoes.

No matter where you are, or what's going on in your life you are never immune to quiet inner loneliness- and here- in this remarkable place, in the midst of my very happy life- the past few days a quiet dreamy restless sadness has crept in.
Am I childish enough to sulk about not seeing wolves? An elusive controversial animal a man that worked in Glacier 36 years saw- less than five times. Do I miss Low and Bones and wish I could be with their Colorado trail expedition? Did I look at too many of my former roommate's wedding pictures? Or is all this talk of dogs just making me think far too much about my favorite dog- down in a kennel 5 hours away from me? I think it's that ridiculous book I'm reading about India...
Clouds grew dark and rippled with deep blue and grey, a little refreshed, or at least more grounded after reconnecting with Susanna I worked my way back upstream, in the margin of damp bank. Just before my creek crossing to mainland I caught a toad. Which is pretty special around here- seeing as how there are only 3 varieties of amphibians in GNP. Appalachian night echoed as a distant memory. Dewy dark walks down gravel roads in the USGS Pilot quadrangle. Bobcats, bullfrogs. Walking by faith, not sight.
Can I do that in Griz country? What is at risk here?
Uncertain, and too tired to work through that thought process- I kept my headlamp off - until I saw Drew's blinking red light emerge from his cabin. I flashed my light, walked up to his brilliant sweater and hat, chatted across his bike.
He cruised for a drink at Fida's. I came to talk to you.
And now, my dear. It's time for bed.

Friday, June 19, 2009

De Bugged?

PHEW I may have worked through most of my technological difficulties. After purchasing a new wireless card and getting a new church buddy, Gavin, to streamline my computer. The Internet is slow, but steady at the Glacier View Golf Course. Our Internet at field camp is another story entirely... So I probably won't be online OFTEN, but hopefully more than I have been since March.
I've spent a lot of the past week growing roots in this area. I rearranged my cabin to a set up I'm really comfortable and content with, purchased a foam egg crate to make my bed sleepable, and even got some 4x6 pics printed up to stick on the wall. I'm working on putting animal tracks around my walls, hopefully in paint, so I can quiz myself with identifying local wildlife.
I'm surprising myself with this nesting business, but it makes me feel happy and more settled having a home base to adventure out of. Speaking of adventures, Drew and I are becoming enthusiastic fly fishing students, Hillary and I have been having quality girl time and adventures, and Gi Gi hooks me up with a kayak paddle every time we can sneek away to Lower McDonald Creek.
I haven't been writing or journaling much since Bones started hiking with me at the end of April. I think now that things are working into a better groove I'll pick that up. I have however been photographing a lot - which you can check out on the slide shows at the bottom of this page and top.
I'm assistant teaching my first class this weekend!!! Wolves!!! with Dave Shea, and his wife Vivi in the North Fork! SO excited about that.
Gi Gi has been helping me immensely trying to get Geronimo in a home nearby so I can see him. I'm hoping to bring him back to the West Glacier area on my way home from July 4 celebrations with Dacia! Please send some prayers up about that.
That's really all for now. Peep the pics, they're worth - millions?? of words ;)

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Glaciated

It has been three weeks since I left Virginia. Hmm... where to start this story...
In an effort to support and adhere to the "where ever you are, be all there" philosophy, I think I'll start here, in a library in Whitefish, Montana, and perhaps work backwards. Today is my first day off from my new job at the Glacier Institute Field Camp since our trainings started LAST Monday. Trying to take full advantage of my free time I slept til 9 today, ate a bagel, and went for a bike ride (18 miles maybe?) on Going to the Sun Road. GTSR is a face melting scenic drive that connects the west side of Glacier National Park to the East side. Every fall and winter it is covered with snow and ice, and every spring the park spends much money and man power to unearth it from avalanches etc. It usually is drivable again sometime in June. It is only open to vehicles about 18 miles deep into the West side (where I live) Today I biked past the car barrier, about 9 miles through glaciated mountains to the hiker/ biker barrier. It's a beautiful ride, past clear swift creeks turned milky turquoise and baby blue from the rock flour of snow melt, through avalanche chutes poignant with the smell of uprooted trees, dirt and rubble, wing upwards and through a geologists dream- layers of unique rock and natural forces. It makes my mind wander, and my belly feel nauseous with elevation gain. I stop for a drink and to consult my map, wanting desperately to learn this place, to love this place. It is no Virginia, Tinker Mountain is time zones away, but some wild part in my being has a hope I can someday feel at home in this scene, like I once did in the Appalachian's Blue Ridge. I hop back on my bike and cruise down hill, nervously pumping the brakes. Until... stop. A cat-size bear cub scampers across the road, followed by its Mom. I wait, then pass and stop again, watching. It runs back across the road to where it came. I wait. Momma crawls over the concrete road side, followed by two more cubs. It's awfully high up and rocky for black bear this time of year, but they seem about black bear size. I tell my boss when I get home to camp. He thinks it's grizzly. One Mom with 3 new cubs- Grizzly. Paul's jealous of the sighting, I write it on our dry erase board on the kitchen wall above GiGi's writing of "4 coyote pups and Momma", smile, and head to town in my cowboy boots.
It's 50 and rainy now, it's been chilly for about 10 days. It makes my heatless cabin and training rooms tough to tolerate, but I'm thankful I brought my down jacket to my summer job. I've been hiking, fly fishing, even got out in my kayak with GiGi (Paul's wife). Our field camp is a cozy set up, a small compound with cabins, a bathhouse, kitchen, and a tipi, all on the river. Myself, my 4 co workers, and the wilderness EMT group staying with us until next weekend all seem extremely content in the personal space, and out communal areas.
After a month on the A.T. and two weeks on the road (and everything else the last year) I feel the more settled than ever since leaving my apartment at Allendale April 2008.
The drive west was a brilliant exploration or the northeast, Midwest, and northern Rockies, taking me all the way to British Columbia before scooping back south to Glacier.
I'm working through some logistical and technical bugs with my computer and camera situation, and the library comp timer is blinking at me. I'll try to update more soon, sorry communication has been so sparse.
Know that I am in a beautiful, restful, wild place. Treasuring the verse where God brings you to spacious place beside cool clean waters.
Miss and love you =*

Monday, May 11, 2009

This is how the story ends. Or perhaps begins?

I started dreaming about a long walk from Georgia to Maine as a high school cross country runner. I picked college at Emory & Henry because of its proximity to Damascus. Graduating from Montana, I returned east, hoping to reconnect with friends and family, and finally hike the AT. Befriending Hasty had a profound effect on embracing the idea of a thru hike as a reality, and by the time I walked out of Daleville May 15, 2008 I was nervous, excited, and looking to understand the meaning of "home".
Many of you have been part of this journey since then, you know the hardship, awe, humility, and adventure I've found along the way. A lot of folks hike long distances to prove self sufficiency, for the record- that was never my intention, and I could never tell you all enough how much I have loved and needed you to be part of this journey.
My life since returning to the Appalachian Trail has been overflowing with adventure and surprises- and I'm sorry for not keeping more up to date on here- but sometimes I find myself too busy throwing up my hands and living to self-reflect.
The first two weeks out were a surprise of snow and friendship with 2009 northbounders. We all bonded in the 2 feet of powder dumped in the Smokies, and until Erwin I traveled, sang, and laughed with Jeremiah Johnson. From Erwin to Damascus VA I shifted gears and traveling companions to the fascinating Wendy, and charming Hellbender. We sampled native vegetation and rapped silly rhymes, walking through fog and rain and sketchy hikers, and hilarious monopoly players. By the time I walked across the Virginia border my heart was scattered and full about being back in VA and 135 miles from wrapping up this journey.
The plan was to jump up to Bland and walk back to Daleville. Mom and Dixie drove to Damascus to bring Geronimo. I was a bit sullen about having to finish the journey alone - but knew- I gotsta what I gotsta- and after all- this whole crazy journey is- my own.
THEN Bones showed up- after hitch hiking for two days from Hot Springs to finish this hike with me. AND Jeremiah Johnson got into town after hiking in five days what took me seven. Then I found Hellbender and Wendy. As it turned out, everyone I adore that is on the trail this year was in Damascus at the same time, such beauty and joy as we took pictures, hugged, and drove away singing to the ukulele I cannot find words to describe.
Bones, Geronimo and I hiked out of Bland around 10 pm, and crashed out to sleep at the first available camping spot. The next few days revolved around shifting our hiking to accommodate our new fellowship and the harsh sun unfiltered by barely budding trees. We took long afternoon breaks; 4 hour swimming at a waterfall, eating frozen lemonadeat a country grocery stores, and napping in the shade. After a few days the rains came, and stayed for the rest of our hike. By the end we were just pushing to wrap this up.
Finishing a journey that has consumed my emotional, physical, geographic, and spiritual location and health for the past year is (as everything with the Appalachian Trail) mixed, beautiful, and surprising. I always thought completing this 2,175 mile walk would be invigorating, that I would be amped up beyond any espresso shot I'd ever had. In reality- my entire last day a peaceful excitment consumed me. The last familiar miles of my hike were more like heart beats, pulses, of my childhood than "thru hiking". Friends, landscape, laughter, tears, so many moments across this terrain scattered, replaying, culminating, but in no way ENDING with the last miles of this thru hike. Perhaps I still have not grasped the scope of what I've done, but I felt like a hobbit returning to the Shire. Knowing now that home is fluid, but passionately connecting with THIS place all the same. I sent Bones to Tinker Creek to wait while I hiked across Tinker Ridge and descended the mountain alone. I thought about cross country, and my favorite running buddies; Susanna and Carrie. All the love that has fostered and found me in this place. I nearly cried, but was so tired and excited the tears could not surface. I came to Tinker to find Bones in a plastic lawn chair playing "eye of the tiger" on his ukulele, dedicated to me =)
Bones, Geronimo, and I walked into Daleville around 6pm Cinco de Mayo. Sarah drove us to my parents house, and before we knew it, we were clean, happy, and drunk at the Mexican restaurant with old and new friends. Since then we've been bumming around my folks' catching up with tasks and people, and scheming for our drive to Montana (which starts Sunday May 17).
So the chapter has closed, but the first pages of the current, this new chapter are pretty alluring. Stay tuned for details =)
Trails Days May 15-17
Drive to Montana summer job May 17-28
Montana summer job May 29-Aug 31
then???? God only knows =)

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Erwin TN !!! (a long time coming)

I am in Erwin Tennessee. Jeremiah Johnson and I have pushed hard, big mile days for nearly two weeks to get here Friday to meet his friend. My left knee is bothering me a bit, but I am taking a day off from hiking today to rest and hang out. I went absolutely huge last night and slept in a king size bed at Holiday Inn Express (thanks grandpa!) and JJ's friend Rex even drove us to Johnson City for dinner! A broccoli Cheese, butter, sour cream baked potato and bbq baked beans went down well as the waitresses cruised around in Firehouse- ish suspenders. The miles and smiles are coming quicker and easier than I could have hoped. All seems well with the dream of a Daleville return before May 15.
After leaving Holiday Inn Express JJ and Rex dropped me back at Uncle Johnny's Hostel. Joe Kick Ass and his girlfriend are graciously grillin up burgers, and hot dogs along with other snacks (candy bars, cookies, chips, cole slaw, beer etc) as some amazing trail magic. The crew I was hiking around in the Smokies have caught back up; Truckin, Wendy, St. Patty's etc, and an afternoon of food and fiends in the sunshine makes me feel like perhaps, finally, the AT is as it should be.
My cornrows are still holiding up. It's strange to be in town showering, but not washing my hair. Dancruff is definately setting in, but having them tight, reasonaly snag free, and hair out of my face seems worthwhile to keep them in longer. As long as bugs don't stat crawling around.... I should be set to keep my hair up till.... dare I saw Daleville?
I beleive the count down is 260 more miles from Erwin-Damascus + Bland- Daleville. I can scarce believe I'm so close to finishing this journey, but as always, am embracing and accepting the principle of not counting my chickens before they hatch.
Low and his girlfriend Erin sent me an incredible Easter- themeed goodie box to Standing Bear Hostel. In his card he said "when it don't come easy, pray for strength, and when it does- ask for humility". I keep thinking of that, journeys coming full circle, and the most exciting part being just around the river bend.
I used to think Erwin would be bittersweet and sad for me, it being one of my first trail towns visited during Hasty's 2007 hike. As it turns out, that is a pale memory to the vivid dream I'm currently living.
Life is lovely, companionship is fufilling and delightful, the music is jamming, and the weather is brilliant. Happy and grateful, I couldn't ask for more =)

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

A walk in the park?

WHOEVER made up that saying in reference to Great Smokey Mountain National Park was off hteir rocker! I've been having a great time back on the AT. It all started with a static-y but fulfilling and surprising roa trip with Maggie and MAtt to Fontana Dam. (pics to come later). Cowboy camped under gorgeous stars an hiked on a buggy warm day the next day. Monday snow started, Tuesday snowed all day. I'm making good time and miles - all things considered. But all thingings considered I traveresed the highest peak on the AT today and cruised 12 ish miles in 2 feet of snow. It's goot to be in Gatlinburg tonight, warm, with new friends! More to come later! Gotta get some sleep and hike again tommorrow. Pushing hard to get out of these high elevations and get my easter candy CRAB Low and Erin mailed to Standing Bear!!!